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Ko
Similan is by far the
most beautiful group
of dive sites that we
have in Thailand and
one of the best areas
for diving in the entire
world. Many people comment
that the most fantastic
thing about the Similans
is that we have two
radically different
types of environments
all rolled together
into one destination.
Nowhere else in the
world will a diver find
such diverse environments
in such a small area.
The
Similan Islands, located
about one hundred kilometers
northwest of Phuket,
are composed of nine
granite islands covered
in tropical jungle,
washed by a clear blue
tropical ocean and blessed
with some of the world's
finest beaches. Similan
comes from Malay fisherman
who named it "The Nine
Islands" (Sembilan is
"nine" in Malay) and
now the islands are
identified by a name-in
Thai-and a number; for
example, Ko Huyong (Island
#1), located at the
southern end of the
chain. The islands have
achieved national park
status and thus are
fully protected under
Thai law. The National
Park Authority maintains
their presence on two
of the islands: Ko Similan
(Island #8) the largest,
and Ko Miang (Island
#4). Recently, the islands
have come to the special
attention of the Thai
Royal Family which further
protects them from possible
abuse.
By
drawing an imaginary
line from north to south,
we divide the area into
our two separate types
of environments. The
East Coast, with its
powdery beaches, features
hard coral gardens which
slope dramatically from
the surface down to
approximately 30-40
meters, where sand takes
over as the water depth
increases. On this side,
the most popular activity
is drift diving along
healthy coral gardens
while watching the reef
inhabitants go about
their business. In several
sites, large coral bommies
rise from the bottom
and are covered with
soft corals, sea fans,
and an enormous amount
of critters and unusual
fish. Here the diving
is easy and navigation
simple, allowing each
buddy pair to explore
at his or her own pace.
The
West Coast, just a short
boat ride away, can
offer faster paced,
more exhilarating diving
as currents swirl around
the huge granite boulders-some
larger than the largest
of houses. These smooth,
rounded boulders make
dramatic formations,
holes, and overhangs
("swim-throughs") underwater
where divers can enjoy
swimming with the current
through the openings.
The drama of just looking
up through the clear
water at these huge
rocks is satisfaction
enough for some divers,
as there are very few
places like this on
earth. Growing on these
boulders are some of
the most colorful soft
corals imaginable, in
many places so thick
that the rock is no
longer visible. In the
larger passages or channels
between the boulders,
the fans grow to a size
sometimes three meters
across, and are often
so tightly bunched together
that it makes it impossible
to swim through the
passages. Most of the
dive sites on the West
Coast are best seen
with a guide, since
navigation can be tricky.
If
you enjoy watching and
photographing small
fish, the Similans are
hard to beat for the
sheer numbers and varieties
of tropicals. Large
fish, however, are a
different story and
the Similans are not
well known for consistent
big fish action-stories
about which fill all
the popular diving magazines.
For this kind of diving,
you must travel further
to the Burma Banks.
Luckily, we often do
get an occasional whale
shark, while large cow
tail rays are fairly
common. And, of course
the most famous aquatic
resident of Thailand-the
leopard shark-makes
his appearance on a
regular basis. We'll
also see white tip and
black tip sharks once
in awhile, and a few
times over the years
we've seen schools of
pseudo orcas or false
killer whales. The point
is, like all diving
areas, enjoy the Similans
for what they are famous
for; wild, unspoiled
beaches, magnificent
coral growth, prolific
fish life, crystalline
blue water and sensational
underwater rock formations.
The
only accommodation available
on the islands is on
#4 which has both tent
camping and Thai style
bungalows. Getting to
the Similans to enjoy
life on the island however,
is not easy; day boats
run to the islands irregularly
at best. Also, there
are no dive shops on
the islands as it is
illegal to operate a
business in the marine
national park, and rightly
so. The best way to
visit the Similans are,
and will continue to
be, on a liveaboard
boat.
Boats
in Thailand vary in
style and comfort dramatically.
For those less worried
about comfort, sleeping
in one big cabin or
even on deck will save
you money. At the other
end of the scale, several
boats are available
with large, private
air-conditioned cabins,
professional photography
services, modern communications,
and little extras such
as gourmet meals, video,
and CD sound systems.
These boats also have
the stability, the range,
and the navigational
equipment to explore
areas north and West
of the Similan Islands
such as the Burma Banks
and Richelieu Rock.
Trip
lengths vary from three
to five days; often
longer if the boat is
including the Similans
as just one stop on
the itinerary. One day
trips are possible at
certain times of the
year but in general
are not recommended
as it is impossible
to fully appreciate
the beauty of the islands
without spending a few
days diving around them.
Trip prices vary dramatically–starting
at $400 and peaking
at about $3,000–depending
on where you go and
how comfortable you
want to be.
High
season in the Similans
is from October until
May, but diving is possible
all year-round. The
water tends to be clearest
in the summer and in
the fall, but then again,
the visibility is almost
always good in the Similans,
averaging approximately
18-25 meters and at
times exceeding 40 meters!
There are well over
20 charted dive sites
in the Similan chain,
and the following short
descriptions of a few
of our favorites should
give you an idea of
what to expect.
Christmas
Point, Island #9,
Ko Bangu:
One
of the most dramatic
dives in the Similans,
this dive begins with
a series of large
arches at a depth
of about 24 meters.
The soft coral growth
and sea fans are as
large as they are
anywhere, and the
fish action is fast
here. We often encounter
small schools of blue
fin trevally feeding
on schools of fry.
End your dive near
the island for the
best swim-throughs
in the Similans and
keep your eyes open
for surprisingly large
jacks that hide in
these passageways.
Breakfast
Bend, Island #9, Ko
Bangu:
A
typical East Coast
dive, this is my favorite
way to begin a trip.
The light is beautiful
early in the morning
hence its name, and
the coral is in great
shape. Down deeper
in the sand, there
has been a large increase
of garden eels over
the past few years.
In the shallows, leopard
sharks are often seen
resting in the sand.
Recently we've spotted
a napoleon wrasse,
which is a rare fish
in the Similans.
Fantasy
Reef, Island #8, Ko
Similan:
One
of the most popular
dive spots in the
Similans, these underwater
rock formations cover
a huge area. The friendliest
fish in the Similans
hangout here, including
clown trigger fish,
normally a difficult
fish to approach.
Depths range from
15 meters down to
past 40 meters, and
this is one of the
best dives for enjoying
the grandness of huge
boulders. One of the
best dives I've had
here was a couple
of years ago were
we viewed at least
10 cow tail rays over
the sand-some animals
exceeding 3 meters
in overall length-participating
in a frantic mating
ritual.
Beacon
Reef (south), Island
#8, Ko Similan
One
of my favorite dives,
probably because this
is where I saw my
first whale shark,
this reef features
a steep drop-off with
striking diversity
of hard corals from
35 meters of depth
almost all the way
to the surface. This
dive probably has
the largest variety
of healthy hard corals
in the Similans, probably
exceeding 300 species.
I enjoy poking around
the coral heads looking
for nudibranchs and
the nervous fire fish
(Nemateleotris
magnifica),
one of the most beautiful
fish in the tropical
sea. One of the ugliest
residents of this
reef are the big eye
fish that slowly cruise
the reef flats. These
fish have an amazing
ability to change
from a deep red color
to a contrasting vivid
silver. It almost
appears as if they
are changing their
color to fit their
mood.
Elephant
Head, Island #8, Ko
Similan:
Probably
the most famous dive
in the group, the
site is named after
an unusually shaped
rock that juts out
of the water just
southwest of Ko Similan.
The three rocks that
form Elephant Head
also create a natural
amphitheater that
feels like you are
diving in a huge aquarium.
Yellow goat fish and
snappers always hang
around at the deepest
level of the bowl,
as well as several
species of lion fish,
coral trout, and the
occasional hawks bill
or ridleys turtle.
The swim throughs
at deeper depths are
dazzling.
East
of Eden, Island #7,
Ko Payu:
A
typical East Coast
dive, this particular
site has one of the
most incredible underwater
bommies in the Similans.
Beginning at about
21 meters and continuing
up to about 12 meters,
the concentration
of marine life is
unequaled in the Similans.
For a period last
summer, we had the
opportunity to photograph
a cute pink frog fish
repeatedly, as he
stayed in the same
spot on the same reef
for over two months.
These are rare fish
in the Similans anyway,
but he was especially
fun as he was so regally
positioned on top
of his throne of coral.
A
Final Word
The
Similan Islands are
unique for another
reason as well. Mooring
projects and other
environmentally protective
measures have been
introduced over the
past few years and
happily, the diving
has actually improved.
While we hear that
other areas of the
world deteriorate
due to thoughtless
management, the diving
in the Similans just
gets better and better.
One thing is for sure,
the Similan Islands
will give all that
you ask of it-and
more.
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Reef
type:
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Boulders,
coral walls,
pinnacles
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Access:
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Overnight
by liveaboard
boat
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Visibility:
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Great,
20-30 meters
plus
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Current:
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Variable,
sometimes strong
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Coral:
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Excellent
condition, unbelievable
variety
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Fish:
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Small
fish-life fantastic
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Highlights:
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Unusual
formations,
dramatic scenery,
swim-throughs,
large fans,
beautiful
beaches
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