Located just South of Krabi Province, Trang is the newest diving area to open up in Southern Thailand. Although not as commercially developed as some of the other sites around the country-which makes it more difficult to get to-some of Trang's diving spots are decidedly world-class. Certainly, when conditions are right, the pinnacles of Hin Daeng and Hin Muang triumph over anything in the Similan Islands.

There are four principle places for diving in this area South of Ko Phi Phi. These are Ko Ha Yai, Ko Rok, Hin Daeng, and several islands inshore from Ko Rok and just South of Ko Lanta.

Ko Ha

Ko Ha is a small group of islands almost directly West of Ko Lanta. These tiny islands, separated by channels over 50 meters deep, jut straight out of the Andaman Sea. However, unlike Ko Phi Phi, the water here is ordinarily quite clear and visibility frequently exceeds 25 meters. The highlight of diving here is a series of caves, or caverns on the largest of the islands, Ko Ha Yai. The caves are safe to enter, even without a light, as the entrances are large and there is only one way in and one way out. The best part of entering these caves is that you can surface inside the island to view stalactites hanging down from the ceiling over 30 meters above the surface. The quality of light filtering through the water from the entrance is magical.

Ko Lanta

Moving inshore to the South of Ko Lanta, the water clarity deteriorates, and the diving is quite shallow. There is one interesting place to explore called the Emerald Cave, where at high tide the diver can swim through a large cave underwater to surface in a perfect little lagoon complete with its own white sand beach and splendid tropical jungle. Once inside, you are surrounded by tall cliffs, and the only way out is through the cave. Therefore, an experienced guide who knows the area is essential for safe exploration.

Ko Rok

Ko Rok, about 25 kilometers South of Ko Ha, are two sister-islands separated by a narrow channel about 15 meters deep. These islands, Nok and Nai (outside and inside) have some of the prettiest beaches in Thailand and are completely devoid of inhabitants. The islands are named for a small, furry mammal called a Rok in Thai, and this animal, along with monitor lizards, can be observed on-shore-with a little patience and a bit of luck.

The diving here is relatively shallow, with the best corals and fish life living above 18 meters. The bottom is composed of mostly hard corals, with small areas of soft corals at deeper depths. Black tip sharks patrol the reef shallows and Hawks bill turtles are sighted regularly. But the main reason for stopping in Ko Rok is that it is the perfect jumping off point for trips out to Hin Daeng and the islands make an ideal anchorage in all weather.

Hin Daeng and Hin Muang

The sole reason that diving has become popular in Trang are two pinnacles that lie approximately 25 kilometers Southwest of Ko Rok. Hin Daeng (red rock) and Hin Muang (purple rock) offers everything a diver could want, from dramatic walls and big fish action, to lush tropical underwater gardens.

Hin Daeng is easily found since it protrudes about three meters above the surface. Although not very impressive topside, underwater the rock is huge. The Southern side descends-straight down-to over 60 meters forming the most radical vertical drop in Thailand's seas. The wall is dotted with light growths of soft corals and a few sea fans, but is otherwise devoid of life. On the Eastern side where the slope is more gentle, two long ridges descend into the blueness and if the currents are favorable it is possible to swim along these ridges down to 40 meters or more. Here the soft coral becomes more lush and tall, and huge schools of jacks sweep past the ridge, surrounding the diver with a shimmering wall of silver. Ascending to the shallows we see needle fish, or long toms, skip along the surface. Barracudas stalk their prey through the clear water. Swimming between the three large rocks that form the surface view of Hin Daeng, large schools of fusiliers dart to and fro as if they are afraid of the water surging through the channels.

Hin Muang, located just a few hundred meters from Hin Daeng, lies completely submerged. What surprised us the first time we explored the rock was the incredible amount of marine life that clung to the rock. It is as if the rock were located in another ocean and not just a short distance away from the relatively barren Hin Daeng. The name derives itself from the thick purple growth of soft corals that are everywhere. The rock itself is approximately 200 meters long and less than 20 meters wide, and is shaped like an immense loaf of bread with steep, vertical sides and a rounded top. The walls are decorated with large sea fans of red, white and orange. Clouds of glass fish, or silver sides, school around the fans and rocky outcroppings. Carpets of anemones cover the shallower sections of the pinnacle.

One July, the water was so transparent and the sea so smooth that I could see clearly the splash of someone throwing the dregs of their coffee overboard-puffy white tropical clouds as a back-drop-from a depth of over 45 metres.

Whale sharks are one animal that we see repeatedly around these pinnacles and this year we saw them on almost 70% of our trips there. We've even given a name to one small 5-metre animal since he is sighted so often. Oscar doesn't seem to mind divers at all and will swim right up to you-an impressive sight to behold. Oscar especially seems to like to make dramatic entrances with beginning divers around and seems to know that this is an unnerving experience for most of them. There's nothing like a whale shark with a sense of humor.

On many occasions we swim with gray reef sharks in the deep blue water off Hin Daeng and Hin Muang. This is the only place in Thailand where I have seen more than 10 gray reef sharks together at one time. In fact, even at the Burma Banks this type of shark is rare. Gray reef sharks are full-bodied sharks, powerful and sleek, and are often confused with black tips because of their similar markings. However, unlike their cousins, these sharks are true pelagic animals, and swimming with them is a stirring, emotional experience. On one occasion, I managed to hover within two meters of a group of these sharks who ignored me in favour of a large school of jacks-apparently they were more mouth-watering than I was.